Let's Talk Hair

Stay tuned here for real talk about all things hair.

  • April

Hello sunshine, hello vacations, hello hot dogs for dinner, hello swimming pools and...HAY FOR HAIR?!!


Yep, you read that right. Summer is tough on your hair. And unless you baby it a bit, it will look like this in a weekend. I'm not saying don't play in the sun or hop in the pool with your kiddos. And let's face it, who doesn't want to take a few trips down that water slide? By all means party on Wayne! But read on to learn a few tips and tricks for avoiding summertime hay hair.


First things first, sunscreen. You protect your skin, so why wouldn't you also need to protect your hair? UV rays don't just burn skin, they also burn holes in your hair and burn up your haircolor. So if you paid for haircolor, protect your investment. Let's start with your daily routine. Many professional products contain UV fighting ingredients. This one is a nice lightweight way to go about your day with a little insurance against the sun. You simply spray it in your hair before you blowdry and viola, sun protection.


Got a little fish, or kid on the swim team? This magical set keeps your hair free from chlorine buildup. I call it Barbie hair. You know, when your kid's hair gets all stiff and weirdly shiny, maybe a bit greenish? That's big time chemical buildup from the pool. The easiest way to keep your kid's hair chlorine free is use that shower that's next to the pool before and after swimming. I know, who uses that thing? Here's the deal, if your hair is soaked with fresh water, it can't soak up nearly as much pool water. It will still soak up some pool water, so don't just hop out of the pool and let the sun bake those chemicals into your hair. Use that shower again and rinse. Then at the end of your day at the pool or ocean, shampoo and condition.


Got haircolor? I highly recommend leaving conditioner in your hair for your fun in the sun. Any conditioner will do, but one with UV protection will earn you extra points ;) Dampen your hair, apply a generous amount of conditioner, play in the sun and pool, reapply as needed, rinse before heading home, shampoo and DEEP CONDITION, maybe even sleep in said deep treatment and rinse in the am.


At the end of a vacation or summer season, you may want to consider a visit to the salon where we do a super duper clarifying treatment followed by a deep conditioner, perhaps even an Olaplex if your hair is super compromised.


Now what are you waiting for? Go have some fun!


xoxo


#condition #chlorine #sunscreen #haircolor #clarify #summerhair #deepcondition #haircare #uvprotection #swimmershair

  • April

The difference between the two could be as simple as throwing away your comb and finding a new use for those millions of t-shirts you've collected over the years.

Ever see curls like this on someone and think "I'll bet she just wakes up like that!" Guess what? She didn't . Curls like these take lots of TLC and JUST the right combination of product, applied over JUST the right amount of moisture and diffused for JUST the right amount of time. It's all a delicate dance.


If you battle frizz and uneven wave patterns by beating them to death with your blowdryer and flatiron, read on. You JUST might find if you cultivated those waves with some new habits, you'd reveal a head of bouncy curls that coil up instead of stick out, perhaps because you didn't get it dry enough, or take small enough sections with that iron.


Let's start with washing. How often do you do it? Too often, or not often enough? If you've got dry ends and oily scalp, I'm guessing the answer is too often. If it's just dry from scalp to ends, you may want to consider a good clarifying treatment to remove product and provide a clean slate for a good deep conditioner to penetrate. So often I get asked "how often should I shampoo? Once a week, twice?" The answer isn't the same for all of us. I recommend you "listen" to your hair. Don't wash it because it's Tuesday, wash it because your hair wants you to. If it's oily at the scalp, consider a cowash (also called cleansing conditioner). These remove the excess oil, while leaving behind what your hair needs. Most clients feel their oil production balances out and they don't need to wash as often. But if you do still need to wash daily, find comfort in the gentle cleansing that cowash is doing. I recommend a real shampoo with bubbles a couple of times a month if this is the route that you find suits you best.

Dry hair? Definitely don't overshampoo. A cowash might be the answer to your prayers too. However, dryness can be caused by overuse of silicone laden products that have built up and won't allow moisture to penetrate anymore. Dryness could also be damage. So see your stylist and ask if you would benefit from a clarifying treatment, and a deep conditioning, or if you need something that focuses on repairing damage.


Blot that hair with a towel BEFORE you apply your conditioner. Think about it: a soaking wet sponge can't absorb more water. Neither can your sopping wet hair absorb conditioner.


ONLY comb or detangle that hair IN THE SHOWER with conditioner still in it! If you comb through all of those coils after you've rinsed the conditioner out, you're breaking up all of your curls, creating width instead of length.


Experiment with how wet your hair is when you apply that magical styling potion. Some people find that applying it in the shower while they're still drippy wet works better than after they've blotted dry a bit. Others find if it's too wet, it's too crunchy and takes to long to dry. Find your perfect zone. I will tell you this, regardless of sopping wet or just damp: if you let your hair air dry long enough for the hairs to pull away from one another, no amount of product will glue them back together. Better to apply that styling product while they're all still bound together by water.


Don't use a regular old terry cloth towel to dry your hair! You know all of those little loops on your regular bath towel? They latch onto each one of your little hairs and pull them away from their neighbors. ie, FRIZZ CITY. Instead try an old tshirt or a microfiber towel. Your hair won't attach itself to the towel and get all frizzy. Also be gentle when blotting your hair. No scrubbing with your towel or tshirt. Just squeeze out excess water and/or wrap it up.


Ok gang, let's recap. Don't shampoo because you always do it on (insert day of the week here). Wash because it needs it. Consider a cowash (look it up, there are lots of them. I'm partial to Joico and AG, but there are quite a few!) Blot before you apply conditioner but NOT before you apply stylers (maybe). Do use a tshirt, DON'T use a towel. And for the love of curls don't use a comb or brush on your hair after you've rinsed out conditioner.


I hope this is a great start on your curly journey! You too might just have cascading curls hiding under that frizz. It just needs a little TLC :)


xoxo April


#curls #frizz #condition #clarify #cowash #nomorefrizz

  • April

Updated: May 1, 2018


Are you the (sometimes) proud owner of naturally curly/wavy/frizzy heads of hair ? If so, you probably hear "Oh my gosh, I LOVE YOUR CURLS!" or "I WISH I had hair like THAT!" or (my personal fave) " 'll bet you just wake up and go with hair that fabulous!"

Little do they know how much effort goes in to making those locks look so fantastic. And on the days you don't put the time in, or Mother Nature decides to rain on your parade, or you put in a half a teaspoon less of whatever magical concoction you've finally discovered that (sometimes) works, or your kid (or dog, or goldfish~ WHATEVER) needs something and your hair dries just moments longer than usual before you get your magical concoction applied, those days can mean TRAGEDY to the same hair that earned you countless compliments yesterday.

If any of this sounds familiar, you've probably wondered about, or even tried, Keratin Smoothing Treatments. They sound like a godsend to those of us with curly/wavy/frizzy hair. If you're unfamiliar with the treatment, it's a service done in-salon that infuses keratin (hair's primary component) and conditioners into the hair through a process that starts with a deep clarifying shampoo, application of this magical solution, blow dry and VERY thorough flat ironing using extremely high heat and as many as 10-12 passes on each tiny section of hair. That magical solution is very expensive and the length of the process all results in an investment for both the stylist and the client. The reward is smoother, shinier, humidity resistant hair that can last as long as 4 months.

Sounds dreamy, right? Now let's talk consequence. Any keratin treatment that can actually smooth your hair and lend those dreamy results don't work and won't last without the assistance of a little chemical called formaldehyde, or a derivative of it. Even "formaledehyde free" systems contain something that turns back into formaldehyde when hit with the high heat of the flat iron that's necessary when perfoming these services.

Yes, we're surrounded by formaldehyde all day every day. Our bodies even produce it to some degree. However, the gas that's released during these treatments often results in burning throats, itchy/watery eyes, and as if that's not enough, the World Health Organization has classified formaldehyde as a potential carcinogen and cautioned stylists against using these treatments.

It has taken me WEEKS of research and struggling with whether or not to continue to providing these services in my salon. I've gone down the rabbit hole from every angle. And they all lead to this: NO. I've exposed myself, my coworkers and my clients enough. It's been a controversy for a while, and I turned a blind eye in disbelief. But there's just too much evidence to ignore anymore.

I feel like a drug dealer that got my clients hooked on the high of smoother, frizz free hair and then yanked it out of their grasp.

I'm confident that it won't be long before a savvy chemist in our industry will stumble upon a way to tame our tresses without causing cancer. There are advancements constantly being made, and new products being offered. I'll continue to read and try new things. But until I'm confident that a new product is worth the investment and won't put myself, my coworkers and clients at a health risk, keratin treatments won't be offered by me.

So what's a wavy/curly/frizzy girl to do? I think that's the next blog post: caring for your curls. Until then, don't fear shampoos, conditioners and styling products that impart LOTS of moisture and maybe even arm your hair with some humidity repelling silicones. GASP I said it, try the silicones. They may just be the answer to your smaller hair dreams, at least in humid climates. As I said in the previous post, just be sure to use REAL shampoo occasionally and get them off . Follow that up with a good deep conditioner and start fresh with your stylers. Maybe you know silicones aren't for you, GREAT! Keep those curls quenched by sticking with those rich, hydrating conditioners. Probably a good dose of protein will help balance it all out too. Stay tuned. This topic is going to be around a while.


xoxo,

April


#keratin #formaldehyde #frizz #naturallycurly #humidity #smoothingtreatments #nofrizz #curls #keratintreatments #carcinogen